Pastry School Recap | Unit 3 – Puff Pastry

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I love puff pastry. Maybe because, like pâte à choux, mechanical leavening is involved. In class, we made paillettes, or twisted straws, flavored either with cinnamon sugar, or cheese and spices. However, I was never quite satisfied with the version we made in class, for reasons I’ll explain below. Fortunately, last Christmas when I went home to Orange County, I came across a new bakery in Brea, CA called Merely Sweets. To my pleasant surprise, I discovered on their website that the owner is a graduate of the New York campus of my school (f/k/a French Culinary Institute)! No wonder I seemed to recognize most of the desserts in the shop, including cinnamon twists that looked much better than what we made in class.

I was inspired to experiment with new methods to achieve the fatter and more robust twists that Merely Sweets had. I think the result, as seen in the photo above, was much more successful than the ones from class (see photo below).

Instead of twisting a single strip of puff pastry dough upon itself as done in class, which I think overworks the dough and results in a harder, denser stick, I cut a longer strip, put the flavoring on one side, folded the strip on itself, and then twist the folded strip. Then, I sprinkled the outer surface with turbinado/raw sugar for extra flavor and crunch. (You can do the same thing with cheese and spices too.) The problem with twisting a single strip upon itself is that on one hand, you want to twist it tightly enough to hold its twisted shape while baking (instead of unraveling), and on the other hand, you want it twisted just loose enough to give the stick some room to puff up. It just doesn’t quite work out and the exposed flavoring also tends to burn.

On the whole, puff pastry might have been my favorite unit of pastry school. Learning the technical side of puff pastry demystified the pastry and made so many diverse desserts accessible to me. It takes some amount of work to prepare the dough, and a whole lot of waiting time in between turns of the dough (rolling and folding the dough), not to mention the long waiting time for the dough to chill. But once the dough is made, it’s like a versatile, magic play-dough.

Some examples from Unit 3:

Napoleon Strip: my favorite dessert
Gâteau Pithivier: puff pastry filled with frangipane (a pastry cream / almond cream mixture)
Vols-au-vent: classic hors d’oeuvre vessel for sweet and savory fillings
Fruit Strip (bar tart): fresh pineapples and ground pistachios
Caged Poached Pears:
Apricot Galette:
Chocolate Palmiers: displayed only for demonstrative purposes; I otherwise never recommend making or eating chocolate puff pastry (not tasty)
Apple Dartois: apple compote in a lattice
Unit Exam: round napoleon, vols-au-vent, apple galettes
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Ginger Mochi Cannelés – Happy Chinese New Year!

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These little cannelés are chewy little bites of gluten-free cake, dipped in a ginger simply syrup and topped with sea salt and candied ginger. I first read about these on the Hungry Rabbit blog and meant to make them for a potluck a year ago. However, I was busy with work and pastry school and I never got around to making them (or attending that potluck). This year, I finally made them to ring in the year of the horse, but again I was unable to make it to the Chinese New Year gathering where I intended to share these with friends.

So, I guess I will eat most of them myself 🙂

These are a play on the traditional nian gao (rice cake) eaten to celebrate the holiday. If you’re expecting an actual nian gao, this is not it. It won’t be glutinous. However, it is definitely chewier than any typical cake, and because it’s made with rice flour and mochiko, it’s gluten-free. I’m not a huge ginger fan, but these smelled and tasted delicious out of the oven, and I feel like the flavor balance has even improved over the last couple days.

The original recipe from Hungry Rabbit lists “vanilla extract” twice. I’m not sure if that’s a mistake, but I don’t think it makes a huge difference. You can use vanilla extract twice, or try almond or ginger extract in addition to vanilla extract.

Ginger “Nian Gao” – Ginger Mochi Cannelés

Ingredients
Makes 64 cannelés (using 1-oz mold)

  • 10¼ ounces (2/3 box) Mochiko flour
  • 1 cup rice flour
  • 1 teaspoon ground ginger
  • 1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • 16 tablespoons (8 ounces/2 sticks) salted butter, softened
  • 1 cup granulated sugar
  • 1 can (14 oz) sweetened condensed milk
  • 1 can (12 oz) evaporated milk
  • 3 tablespoon ginger, freshly grated
  • 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
  • 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
  • Ginger syrup (see recipe below)
  •  cup crystalized candied ginger, finely chopped
  • Sea salt, for sprinkling

Directions

  1. Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and heat oven to 350℉. Spray two 1-oz silicon cannelé molds with cooking spray and place them side-by-side on a baking sheet. Set aside.
  2. Whisk together mochiko flour, rice flour, ground ginger and cinnamon, set aside.
  3. In a blender, add butter, sugar, condensed milk, evaporated milk, grated ginger and extracts. Blend on high speed until smooth and fully combined. (A stand mixer works too. The mixture will have little lumps, especially from the grated ginger, but the batter comes together just fine with the flour is added.)
  4. Pour milk mixture into a large bowl and whisk in flour mixture until fully combined with no lumps. 
  5. Fill each mold just below the top and gently tap the baking pan on the countertop a few times to release any air bubbles in the batter. Cover remaining batter until ready to use.
  6. Place baking sheet in oven and bake until golden brown, about 40 minutes. Make ginger syrup while cannelés are in the oven.
  7. When cannelés are done, remove from oven and release them from the mold immediately. Dip each cannelé in ginger syrup until fully coated, about 10 seconds; place them right-side-up on wire rack to cool.
  8. Repeat with remaining batter.
  9. Sprinkle with sea salt and top with chopped candied ginger.

Ginger Syrup

Ingredients

  • 1 cup water
  • 1 cup granulated sugar
  • 8 slices of ginger, freshly sliced
  • 2 tablespoons Canton, ginger liquor (optional)

Directions

  1. In a small sauce saucepan, combine water, sugar and ginger; heat over medium heat until sugar is dissolved and mixture comes to a simmer. 
  2. Remove from heat, add Canton, stir to combine and set aside until ready to use.
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Pastry School Recap | Unit 2 – Pâte à Choux

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Pâte à choux, a.k.a. cabbage dough. The layperson usually does not recognize this term, so I also describe it as cream puff dough.

I love this stuff. And not just because it demonstrates the magic of mechanical leavening. Okay, maybe precisely for that reason. The dough is made of water, butter, bread flour, a bit of sugar and salt, and eggs. What distinguishes this dough from others is the fact that it is cooked twice: all ingredients except the eggs are first cooked over the stovetop, and then the eggs are beaten in one at a time to reach the right consistency and moisture. Bread flour has a higher protein content, allowing for greater moisture absorption (thus usually more eggs and flavor), and an elasticity from the gluten formation. During baking, the water content transforms into steam (which is up to 1600x in volume under STP conditions! nerd alert!), which puffs up the dough and creates a hollow inside that can be filled with whipped cream, pastry cream, ice cream or other fillings. Round mounds of dough when baked (i.e. cream puffs) have tops that look vaguely like cabbages, hence the French name.
This dough is so versatile and can make cream puffs, profiteroles, eclairs, gougeres, popovers, and even gnocchi! 
Yes, Parisian gnocchi (gnocchis à la parisienne), which are made by poaching the dough. I was inspired to try this after the evening culinary class prepared it for dinner one night. I overboiled some batches which made some pieces mushy, but on the whole it still turned out quite delicious with peas, cherry tomatoes, shaved parmesan cheese, and some simple olive oil, salt and pepper.
Some examples from Unit 2:

Profiteroles:
 Swans:
Unit Exam (Eclairs and Paris Brest):
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